Archive for the 'Africa Diaries' Category

as time goesflies by

Time: Practically Sunday night, Technically Monday morning - 01:15 hrs (GMT)
Location: Tamale
State of Mind: Unknown
Playing in Background: Andrea Bocelli (Vivere - The Best of Andrea Bocelli)
Reason for Staying Awake: Got 2 hours of good sleep earlier before being woken up by some noise outside the house (party people returning from the club it seems!)
Reason for not being able to go back to sleep: Unknown
Current activity (other than typing): Observing two (very quick) spiders running around the entire length and breadth of the room - worried they might climb on to the bed…worry unfounded so far!
Inspiration for this entry: Mr Witt’s comment on the previous post, which I just saw on my mailbox (checked on mobile phone, yea I know I’m a tech-savvy person! And I can already feel some people thinking “what a “mapain” this fella is!?!” :) )
Time since last post: 1 month +
Anything special about this Sunday?: None except that today was the day for my anti-malarial, which I took in timely manner with food in the morning! Oh, no side effects for me as far as I can tell. This staying-up-late has nothing to do with medicine I’m sure (well, I hope!).
In Short: I’m alive and doing well!! :) Continue reading ‘as time goesflies by’

the week that was…

Work without end, struggle without work
It wasn’t my plan to set off with an unfinished paper in hand (on computer rather), but thats was happened. I could probably find many “genuine” excuses but the most genuine of all the excuses - and which isn’t really an excuse - is my excessive procrastination. In any case, the first weekend in Ghana without uninterrupted internet connection (with BBC worldservice to keep company instead) has certainly helped me spend more time reading and writing, not to mention thinking (and not just about work and research at that!). I’ve finished the unfinished paper (or so I think) and have just managed to make “electronic submission” of the manuscript (phew, after nearly two hours of uploading files - not that I had that many files, the “broadband” connection was just not broad enough!). So,the week that was, the week has been one of relative success.

But that’s only half the story! Beginning at the university in York, trying to sort administrative nightmares, ending at the university in Tamale, trying to sort administrative nightmares, the week that was, the week has been one of immense frustration. Beginning at the airport in London, ending at the airport in Tamale - getting away with heavy baggage in London, having to pay extra for “excess baggage” in Accra, the week that was, the week has been one of partial travel woes. Reading The Enchantress of Florence - beginning on the last night in York, continuing during a night in Accra, then during the laziness of the daytime Tamale, the week that was, the week has been one of a fascinating read.

Lets talk about the “struggle to work” now, or rather the culture of work/work ethic. Arriving in Ghana, one thing you pretty quickly realise is that West (or North more appropriately) makes you too impatient. Things here take time to get done, they always take time. If you have an appointment with your local colleague at nine in the morning and s/he doesn’t turn up until 11:30, you shouldn’t be surprised that much. As long as s/he turns up before noon, s/he will feel proud at the fact that s/he made it to the meeting in the “morning”, which was what was agreed after all - to meet in the morning. It doesn’t matter what time in the morning, as long as its in the morning, the person hasn’t missed the appointment! You would think being a Nepali, I shouldn’t be too impatient as Ghana-time is more like Nepali-time when it comes to appointments, but being that Nepali who is now more and more living in a limbo between various cultures, its often difficult to decide how to react. At the end you don’t really have much option than to go with the flow and have things done the Ghanaian way, or rather let things happen than trying too hard to make things happen knowing all well that all your efforts could be better spent in other ways!

If somebody tells you a certain thing will get done that week then it usually means things will be ready before the office starts on Monday the next week. Don’t discount the weekends though - if things need to be done at all cost that week, weekend could be used as well. But don’t expect the job to be done by Friday though, two days of weekend are very important, albeit being public holidays.

the village

However, there is one trick that I have realised works fairly well in these situations, be it in Nepal or Ghana - take the lead yourself, get your hands dirty, show by example, and embarrass those delaying the work. They would then have no option but to follow your lead.
Continue reading ‘the week that was…’

I’m back

I’m typing these lines at the Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam,1 and not surprisingly its raining outside - coming after a couple of weeks in hot climate, the cool weather comes as a relief but the never-ending drizzle dampens the sense of relief considerably - to the point that you want to get away from this weather as soon a possible. Fortunately I only have another two weeks in Europe and then I’m off to the hot country again - to Ghana.

These two weeks will going to be crazy because of the packing (not just for travel but also for moving places) but I’m already thinking of spending a good and productive three-plus months in Ghana from June. In any case, I’m planning to at least post a couple of entries about my experiences in Uganda before I leave for Ghana. Suffice to say that I really enjoyed my two weeks in Uganda and was already thinking of going back at the time of leaving that country!

Pictures from Uganda trip will follow soon, probably on Flickr (some flower-pictures already up!) as I’ve become used to uploading there directly than setting up albums here or on my gallery pages. But for now, I have attempted to trace my travel routes in Uganda during those two weeks to give a rough idea of the extent of my travels. I definitely saw more of Uganda in 10 days than I have done of Nepal in 29 years!

travel routes in Uganda
My travel routes across Uganda (Map source: Google Maps)

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  1. As you can see I am posting it a couple of days later. I had wanted to post it from the airport but a 5 Euro per hour internet put me off! []

the man who drives…everybody crazy

He doesn’t speak much. But when someone suddenly crosses his path, he honks his horn and curses them plenty. He curses not only those crossing his path but their parents, grandparents and their entire ancestors. He asks them if their entire ancestry never learnt how to cross the road properly!?!

He doesn’t speak much. But when he sees someone driving carelessly or on the wrong lane, he honks his horn and curses the driver plenty. He curses not only such drivers but their parents, grandparents and their entire ancestors. He questions if their entire ancestry never learnt how to drive properly!?!

He doesn’t speak much. But when he sees cows, goats or sheep on the road, he slows down. He doesn’t honk his horn, he doesn’t shout, or curse the livestock blocking his path or their ancestors. Instead he stops until they clear the road, even while the drivers behind him are already honking their horns. Only when the road is clear, he drives on.

He doesn’t speak much. But he is the chauffeur who drives everybody in the office…and those outside crazy!

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Taking a breather, in Ouagadougou…

Another quick update, more on my whereabouts than anything else. This weekend I’m in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso. I don’t know if I can reasonably justify travelling to Ouagadougou for the weekend while I’m supposed to be carrying out my household surveys in Ghana, but I do have a couple of good reasons, or so I believe.

First reason is that I have actually completed household surveys at one of the sites and needed to take a break. A weekend-off sounded like a good idea (what an irony here though, as weekends are supposed to be taken off anyway!) when my friends in Tamale said they were driving up to Ouaga for the weekend, and whether I would be interested in “coming along”. I did need some pursuading by my friends, but not that much to be honest. I think I really needed a “breather” from the work in Ghana, and what better option there could be for going away to take a breather than coming to the capital of a Francophone country!?! Good food, nice music, good-looking and well-dressed women, and lots to do if I was up for the night-outs, and so on. Well, I think I can justify this trip, don’t you? Continue reading ‘Taking a breather, in Ouagadougou…’